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I made two trips to Spain in 2004, both to Barcelona because I like it so much. The first was with my family and the second time soltero.
Thumbnails link to larger pictures (about 100 kB).
El mercado de la Boqueria
Just off Las Ramblas is the most wonderful market I've seen so far. Not as much seafood as the Sydney Fish Markets, but what it does have is outstanding in variety and quality. Smaller than Paddy's Markets in Chinatown or the Flemington Markets, but the displays are gorgeous- from pyramids of exotic fruit to walls of jamon. To top it off, the place has a selection of bars where you can grab a cortado or treat yourself to a full-on meal.
Carnes
El caballo sanguíneo |
Still bleeding game |
jamón |
Do you sea food?
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| There are many bacalaoeria selling all manner of dried fish |
Carpas |
chipirones |
gambas |
Percebes |
huevas |
Spain in Spring
Frutas |
Verdures |
Bares y restaurantes
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A colorful bar (1) in La Boqueria. I ate at another one by the entrance called Bar Pinotxo and then at one at the back called Bar Central. I had a fantastic breakfast of tallarines con huevos (2) at the former- not much to look at but one of the tastiest dishes I've encountered.
The amazing Cal Pep (3), open (4) for 26 years now and still going strong (link to Atlantic Monthly review). Be sure to get there early to get a seat or prepare to wait a while. I went twice this trip and enjoyed gambas a la plancha (5) (one wasn't cooked sufficiently and at €5.50 a piece this is a serious offence) un plato de atun for lunch, and a multitude of seafood- as the detritus (6) attests. I was treated by my dining-partners to a fantastic meal on night preceding: we feasted on tallarines con jamòn serrano, pescaditos fritos, llengeta con huevo frito, cigales con cebollas, almejas, tortilla de patates, tortilla de mariscos, chipirones con garbanzos pues un surtido de postres (con las espumas) y crema catalana.
In the Park
On a sunny sunday afternoon I was walking towards the Olympic Port when I heard the sound of drums. I followed them and was drawn to the middle of the park, where the pavillion was rocking with drummers like a crazy(7) samba(8) festival(9). Not sure how often this happens- there was a conductor(9) with a whistle and a few drums of his own, then a crazy free-for-all with drums of all sizes and a bevy of samba(10) dancing(11) girls (12).
While in the park I got talking to a couple of Austrians-Selda and Marcus and hung out with them for the afternoon and evening, in the park, El Born and Barceloneta. Marcus (a chef) cooked a lovely but simple meal and then we saw a film.
La Sagrada Familia
Of all the things I remember from spanish class, the one that is most incongruous is the expression atropellado por un tranvia, describing the death of the temple's architect Anton Gaudí.
Here are some photos of it (13-19) and of the Plaça Reial.
Misc
Also worth mentioning is my favorite turròn store: La Campana (Callade Princesa 36). Although their opening hours are highly variable (either mid-morning or early evening to catch the traffic between the Picasso museum and the Museo de Xocolate), when they are open, they have the best turròn de yema I've found so far. Their packs of bon-bons are a great way to get bite-sized bits, rather than buying whole 300g slabs. Also fantastic is their ice-cream selection, especially the turròn flavours, but they only have this in the warmer months.
Mad props too to Angel Jobas next door- great azafranes (5, 10 and 20 g packs) and piñones (€20 per kg last time I was there minimum 500 g). Old fashioned and a little foreboding, but since they're a wholesaler it's a wonder they sell to the public.
Worth a visit is Cacao Sampaka- owned by the brother of Ferran Adria. I tried the Aztec hot chocolate (80% cocoa, thick as a brick) and had a brioche. Their standout items are the tablets of truffles- with flavours from spices to parmesan.
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